Tillmann Lauterbach Men’s SS 2013
The Spring/Summer collection was inspired by Andy Warhol’s trip to China in the 1980’s – together with photographer friend Christopher Makos.
“Industrial disillusion” is a reference to the industrial revolution that took place in Europe in the late 19th century.
Tillmann Lauterbach is deeply immersed in the Chinese creative scene and blends traditional techniques with constant innovation.
These key inspirations translate into a new take on New York post-punk dress code, whilst engaging with a classic Chinese wardrobe of straight lines, clean shapes and innovative sewing techniques.
The overall mood is soft and light; reflected in the materials used and the chosen colour palette. Light Italian wool and cotton twill for suits and coats, Japanese micro jacquard jersey on tops and trousers, and knitwear in mercerized cotton. Natural fibers such as cotton jersey, Italian canvas used for travel bags, silk satin, cotton poplin, linen blends are processed by using industrial techniques, revealing usually concealed parts of a garment. Yet, some pieces are treated to become unique by accelerating the aging process.
The rubber coated canvas of an oversized, short-sleeved summer coat is shock-freezed to remove the gum layer. Egyptian cotton jersey is dyed in Chinese tea leaves to achieve a warm natural color that gradually fades away, revealing a soft beige tone after several washings. This mixture of cotton/linen blends and rubber finishing reveal the raw and industrial edge of the collection. Prints showcase the overall idea, as images of abandoned industrial sites are merged into a 5m long photo collage. Pieces are then cut-out randomly, making no two garments alike.
The collection showcases midnight blues, various shades of grey to black, dashes of-off whites and khakis, and a pop of Tibetan Turquoise. The construction of the silhouettes lend to the mood as well, providing a relaxed feeling to even the most formal of pieces.
